Riesling is the grape variety that has put New York State on the international wine map. Everyone from the most haughty wine expert to the most humble wine novice agrees that New York Rieslings are among the best produced anywhere in the world. What is it about New York, and the Finger Lakes in particular, that makes our Riesling taste so good?
First of all, the Riesling grape thrives in a cool climate. If planted in an area that is too hot, its delicate aromas and flavors are overpowered by excessive ripeness. New York's relatively cool but sunny summers are ideal for Riesling to develop subtle flavors of peaches, apples, citrus fruits, and minerals. Cooler weather also guarantees that Riesling retains its vibrant acidity.
Secondly, New York's vineyard sites are ideal for encouraging complexity of flavor in Riesling. The Finger Lakes region is covered by a patchwork of glacial soils-some vineyard sites are gravelly, others slatey, others loamy. The vineyards are planted on the slopes leading down to the lakes for maximum sun exposure and warmth. But the vines' distance from the water and the orientation of the vineyard (east or west facing) can affect how the grapes taste. Many winemakers in the Finger Lakes combine grapes from different vineyards to make their wine more complex.
If you begin tasting Rieslings from around the Finger Lakes region, you will notice that wines from grapes grown on different lakes and on different sides of the lakes vary in taste. Keuka Lake has some of the coolest vineyard sites because the smaller lake holds less heat and the vineyards are high above the shoreline. Look for these Rieslings to be the most austere with crisp lemon and mineral flavors. Rieslings from the northwest side of Seneca Lake tend toward slightly riper flavors of lime and green apple. The southeast side of Seneca Lake, known as the "Banana Belt" for its relatively warm temperatures, can produce Rieslings with fuzzy peach and apricot aromas. Cayuga Lake Rieslings often contain a harmonious blend of both citrus and peach flavors.
Riesling is a wine that nearly everyone can enjoy because it ranges in style from very dry to very sweet. If you are new to this type of wine, these guidelines may help you find the right Riesling for you. Pinot Grigio lovers should look for a wine labeled "dry," White Zinfandel aficionados and beer drinkers will probably like a "semi-dry," and those who favor Lake Niagara or Arbor Mist will likely enjoy a "semi-sweet" or "ice wine" made from Riesling. Collectors will be interested to know that Riesling from New York's top producers can be aged in your wine cellar for decades. It will develop complex flavors of honey and petrol, while retaining its lively acidity. Look for a bottle with a good quality natural cork if you plan to cellar it.
This spring, show your local pride and good taste by picking up a bottle or two (or twelve to take advantage of the case discount) of your favorite New York Riesling. Better yet, purchase an assortment from various New York wineries. It's the perfect wine to have on hand for everyday dining, gift giving, and special occasions. And it's one of the best wines in the world.
Riesling and Food Pairing Tips
Photo courtesy of Dinosaur BBQ
Riesling is the world's best food pairing wine. Due to its refreshing acidity and range of intensities, Riesling can complement everything from steak to samosas. With heavier dishes containing foie gras, cream sauces, or roasted meats, look for a medium-bodied Riesling, perhaps a late harvest style. With lighter dishes containing fresh vegetables, fruits, and poached or sauteed meats, try a dry or semi-dry Riesling.
Still not convinced? Participants in a class called "Riesling: the World's Best Food Pairing Wine" at the New York Wine and Culinary Center nearly always prefer Riesling over other wine varieties with spicy, tangy, and fruity dishes. The mouth-watering acidity and fresh fruity flavors of Riesling are
a natural complement to foods with these flavors. Here are some examples:
Tangy foods: anything pickled, fresh tomatoes and light tomato sauces, hollandaise, sauerkraut, mustard, lemon, sauerbraten, salads, antipasto, Texas or Carolina barbeque
Spicy foods: Salsas, chiles, spicy barbeque, pesto, spicy sausage, ethnic foods (Thai, Indian, Mexican, Chinese, Cajun), black pepper, blackened foods
Fruity foods: Seasonal vegetables and fruits, shellfish, corn, sesame, sweet potatoes, winter squash, coconut
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